Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Thursday, February 19, 2009
The day was perfect, sunny and temps in the 30’s. We went to the Speed Boulder straight away. For those that haven’t seen it let me say that it may be one of the best. That’s right in the world. Since I’ve been home I’m dying to get back here. While we were warming up on some of the easier terrain of the boulder, I noticed that some big chunks were missing. Someone must have removed the rock by force. Kind of weird but whatever. Then while I was re-aquatinting myself with the problems I saw again that some rock was missing. This time on the mega classic Something From Nothing. I know the hold very well and I’m confused as to why someone would yank the chalk stone out. Resulting in the enlargement of the hold making the problem easier. Not cool in my book. Don’t get me wrong, I believe that during the opening of a boulder problem extensive cleaning is essential. All loose/rotten/sharp rock should be taken down. The chalk stone was neither rotten or sharp, maybe a bit loose but it still managed to withstand 10 or more assents. Bummer someone ruined this stunning line.
After making sure that all the rest of the holds were still the same I started getting to work on Roses and Blue Jays. A lovely line that starts with Something From Nothing and moves left out a blunt overhanging arete. After figuring out the moves for the 100th time I began from the start. 5 or 6 tries later we all were itching to go to another boulder. I gave it one last try and punted it on the top out. Wanker!!!
Below are a few specimens of what the rock at Great Barrington looks like.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Crown of Aragorn V13
El Techo de los tres B V13
Bleeding Brothers V12
Le Cnickel V11
Litz Prolbem V11
Schwhere Gustoff V11
Thearder of the Absured V10
Shroom V9 (Flash)
Monday, February 2, 2009
I know it’s been a while since my last post and there have been many up’s and down’s. Now with 3 climbing days left it’s down to the wire. Nikki’s been climbing very well and hooking up many nice problems. Her latest send was Chris’s Arete. Although it’s given V8 in the book, many as well as Nikki feel it’s a bit soft. No matter what the grade is Nikki took a chick piss on it. Nikki has improved greatly over the last 2 months and it’s been exciting for me to see her progression.
has been on a streak climbing many 7c+’s in “A Day”. Not bad for being off the couch. I’ve been battling it out with Esperanza,
gettin’ close but after having a bad last day on it, I steeped off. I decided that I needed a rehabilitation day so yesterday Burg and I set off with the intention of climbing some classics and giving our “PJ’s” a break. We started off at the nice but low ball Stanage on Holiday, then moved on to Theater of the Absurd. I tried Theater 4 or 5 years back so I figured out some beta then desperately sketched my way to the top. Burg followed suit shortly after, falling off the last move on his first try. Then, he climbed back to the last move where he paused for an eternity before he finished it off.
We were happy with the day and decided to walk up to the top of the chains. On the way we made a brief stop at Chablanke. I’ve never had success with this one so I decided to give it a few burns. I figured out how to hold the pinch
and how to move off it.
Not bad considering I’ve tried Chablanke at least one every trip I’ve made to Hueco. This year the stars were aligned correctly and I sent it with the quickness.
Happy with the day Burg and I bagged the top of the chains and busted it to “Ross Dress for Less” where I hooked up a dope flannel hoody, sycked.
Now we have a few days left to salvage. My spirits are getting better after our “re-hab” day so now it’s back to battling with Esperanza.
Here's my queen on her first "V8"