Sunday, March 29, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Monday, March 23, 2009
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Yesterday my friends Neil, Dan, and I went bouldering in the Gunks. The bouldering there is good but not the best in my opinion. There are good lines to be climbed and I would recommend it to any one, but it’s a bit too sharp for me. The Gunks is a trad climbers paradise. Still, I was sycked to finish off a few problems. First on the list was Venus and Scorpio, V11. In my opinion this may be the best line at the Gunks, technical and powerful on side pulls and pinches. Next was Crouching Dragon, V11. Another one that for me is one of the best. Roof climbing at its finest, when climbed correctly. I’d been on both of these climbs before so I was lucky to get them done.
Since there’s still feet of snow up north I predict a few more return visits to the Gunks, it’s not that bad.
Friday, March 13, 2009
With all the bad news at Bradley I’ve been going to Great Barrington quite a bit. 2 trips this week and with that I’ve finished the last established problem on the speed boulder. The last one to go was Double Down, V13. Double Down was first done as a stand and it was the first problem on the boulder. I’m not sure as to the date but I know it was at least 7 years ago, probably more. The sit start was put up by my good friend Dan Yagmin maybe 3 years ago, possibly sooner. Its is a 4 move power problem which may be my new favorite of the boulder. When we arrived to the speed boulder it was wet, shocking. We spent a good 40 min drying out the holds and eventually got them dry enough to climb. Notice how my left hand blows off the wet crimp at the top almost sending my down the steep hill.
After my quick send I decided to give Something from Nothing a repeat burn which I successfully did. Something is quite a bit easer but still has all the qualities of a great problem. After the speed boulder we all went over to Kindered Spirits, V9 and True Bleau, V10. I wanted to do True Bleau for some time now and today was the day. After falling on the top a couple times I desperately got my ass up it in true font style, schetchy.
The weather looks good for clear into next week so we’ll se what happens next.
Enjoy Double Down,
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Monday, March 9, 2009
The sit start
The coruch start
This new start was added by Dan Bates, a few years ago and supposedly, bumps up the grade to 8B. I figured out some micro foot beta and hooked it up with the quickness. This was the third accent from this “new” start. I’m not sure how hard it is, since I’ve spent half a decade trying to finish the Moment, but entry level v13 or hard v12 would add up. After making send, my friends and I were spooked by some trucks driving around the dirt roads that surround Bradley. I know that that doesn't sound too alarming but there have been a few events over the last couple of days that would suggest otherwise. On Friday the water dep. posted two new “No Rock Climbing” sings at the trail head we use to access the boulders. Then on Saturday we were asked to leave and told that we were trespassing. So seeing these trucks driving around made us feel like there were people trying to get us. We all ran over to an area where we would be out of sight. This area just happened to be one of Bradley's best and since we were waiting out whoever we thought were after us, we decided to climb. We climbed here for an hour, I surprised myself by climbing the sit start to Suspect Devise dubbed Devil Eyes V12.
I know this post will upset some readers, thinking why is someone climbing and writing about a access sensitive area. All I can say is that over the past 10 years that I’ve spent climbing at Bradley I’ve seen trends come and go. There have been sings put up and taken down. The Metacomet trail, which is open to the public, was moved directly in front of the main area at Bradley a few years back. People began to think that the boulders were not on the water dep. land, just the ones close to the reservoir were. Then last year, just a 15 min walk from Bradley a new cliff was opened to the public with permission to equip it with bolds. I think we have to find out who owns the land where the boulders sit. So what I’m trying to say is that for now we should lay off until a settlement has been reached and all of the gray areas have been straightened out.